Pattern Description:
The Gardenia Skirt is a free sewing pattern for a retro-chic take on the classic pencil skirt silhouette.
Described as a staple business basic, the design incorporates a flounce, decorative buttons, and a faux button-up seam created by layering the two front panels. It was introduced using a Mood Exclusive Stretch Cotton Sateen fabric.
Materials Needed & Measurements:
- Fabric: 3 panels of Mood Exclusive Persephone’s Bouquet Black Stretch Cotton Sateen.
- Note on Quantity: 3 panels of 34″ wide fabric is equivalent to about 3 yards.
- Note on Substitution: If substituting the stretch cotton sateen for a non-stretch woven fabric (such as wool or bamboo), it is recommended to add an inch of ease to both side seams and waistband seams when cutting out the pattern.
- Buttons: 2 packages (pkg) of Dritz Size 45 Half Ball Covered Buttons. Five buttons were used on the sample skirt, covered with the same sateen fabric.
- Zipper: 9″ Navy Invisible Zipper. The zipper is inserted about halfway down the waistband.
Measurements/Construction Notes:
- Seam Allowance: All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated.
- Front Panel Overlap: The two front panels are layered on top of one another. The larger skirt panel is placed over the smaller one, overlapping them about 1.75″. After stitching, the resulting parallel lines are about 1.5″ from each other.
- Darts: Darts are sewn in the front and back panels of the skirt.
- Flounce: The flounce is made of two panels attached at the sides to form a full circular shape. It can be finished with a simple rolled hem or lined and turned right side out to press the hem.
Instructions for Making the Gardenia Skirt Sewing Pattern:
Assembling the Front Panels (Faux Button-Up Seam)
The front of the Gardenia Skirt is comprised of two panels that are joined by a faux button-up seam on the wearer’s left side. Essentially, these panels are layered on top of each other and stitched down.
- Press Seam Allowances: Take the two corresponding edges of the front panels that are designated for overlapping and press the seam allowance inward by 1/2″.
- Layer and Pin: Place the larger skirt panel over the smaller skirt panel. Overlap them approximately 1.75″, ensuring that you match up the markings indicated on your pattern.
- Stitch the Top Panel: Stitch along the edge of the top panel to secure this layered section into place.
- Stitch the Bottom Panel: Perform the same stitching process with the edge of the other panel. Once complete, you should have two parallel lines about 1.5″ from each other.
Darts, Waistband, and Side Seam Construction
Once the front panels are secured, you can proceed with the remaining structural elements of the skirt:
- Sew Darts: Sew the darts in both the front and back panels of the skirt.
- Attach Right Side: Attach your panels along the right side of the garment.
- Attach Waistband Edge: Attach one edge of your waistband along the top edge of the skirt.
Zipper Insertion and Fit Check
The invisible zipper is inserted along the right side seam of the skirt.
- Insert Zipper: Place your 9″ invisible zipper about halfway down your waistband and insert it using an invisible zipper foot.
- Finish Side Seam and Check Fit: Sew up the rest of the right side of your skirt below the zipper. Use this opportunity to check the overall fit of the skirt.
Finishing the Waistband
After checking the fit, finish the waistband using a slip-stitch technique:
- Fold Waistband: Fold the attached waistband in half toward the inside of the garment.
- Tuck Edges: Tuck any raw edges inward.
- Secure: Slip-stitch around the inside of the waistband to secure it into its final place.
Constructing and Attaching the Flounce
The flounce component consists of two panels.
- Form the Circular Shape: Attach the two flounce panels together at the sides. This step forms the flounce into a full circular shape.
- Attach to Skirt: Attach the completed flounce directly to the bottom of your skirt.
- Finish the Hem: The flounce hem can be finished in one of two ways:
- Using a simple rolled hem.
- Lining the flounce, turning it right side out, and pressing the hem.
Adding the Decorative Buttons
The final step in completing The Gardenia Skirt is sewing on the decorative buttons.
- Prepare Buttons: The sample skirt used five buttons. These buttons were covered using the same sateen fabric as the skirt. The Dritz Size 45 Half Ball Covered Buttons come as a kit with instructions, and the buttons can typically be punched into place by hand or with a spool of thread.
- Sew Buttons: Sew the prepared buttons onto the faux button-up seam on the front of the skirt.
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