Pattern Description:
The Cress Skirt is a versatile, high-low wrap skirt free sewing pattern. It is designed to be conservative enough for the office while still being easy and breezy for casual wear or as a swimsuit cover-up. This project is suitable for spring and summer fashion.
Materials Needed & Measurements:
Required Materials:
- Fabric (Quantity varies by size and fabric width):
- The materials used in the example required 5 yards of Orchid Bloom Medium-Weight Linen.
- 6 yards are suggested for a size 20.
- 5 yards has been sufficient for sizes up to 22 when using 57″+ wide fabric.
- Thread: 3 909 Light Lilac 100m Gutermann Sew All Thread (used in the example).
- Notions: A large buttonhole is needed on the waistband for closure.
Required Fabrics:
- Linen (Medium-Weight Linen was used in the example).
- Voile.
- African Prints.
- Bamboo Knits.
- Chambray.
- Double Gauze.
- Lightweight cotton/terylene blend (though this may give the skirt more body than linen).
Measurements and Sizing Notes:
- Seam Allowance: All seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise stated.
- Sizing: This specific pattern is available up to a size 30.
- Fabric Width Note: If using 45-inch wide fabric, fitting all pattern pieces on the grainline with 5 yards may be challenging, especially for larger sizes. You may place pieces on the cross grain to aid fit.
- Construction: The skirt requires two skirt panels and two ruffle pieces (the swirl pieces).
- Ties: If using ribbon for the ties, look for something strong and avoid anything with stretch.
Fabric and Construction Overview
This high-low wrap skirt is designed to be versatile. The skirt is intentionally longer in the back than in the front, as the ruffle widens toward the center back seam.
For construction, note that many primary seams in this pattern utilize a French seam.
Constructing the Skirt and Ruffle
Step 1: Sewing Skirt Panels and Ruffles
Begin by sewing your two skirt panels together at the center back seam. Use a French seam for this connection.
Next, prepare the ruffles (the swirl pieces). Do the same as above by sewing your two ruffle pieces together, utilizing a French seam.
Step 2: Attaching the Ruffle
Attach the assembled ruffle to the lower edge of your skirt.
When attaching the ruffle to the skirt, ensure you line up both center back seams. This connection should also be completed using a French seam.
Hemming the Edges
Step 3: Finishing the Skirt Edges
Once the ruffle is attached, you need to hem the raw edges of your skirt and ruffle.
For the flat edges of the skirt, a 1/4″ rolled hem was used in the example. As you move to the ruffle section, switch your method to a single fold and a zig-zag stitch to finish the edge.
Attaching the Waistband and Ties
Step 4: Connecting Skirt to Waistband
Attach your skirt to one edge of your waistband.
You must ensure you leave a half inch of waistband free on either end, as this space is where the ties will be added. If the waistline of your skirt appears too large for the waistband, you can add a few 1/2″ pleats along the waistline to adjust the fit.
Step 5: Constructing and Attaching the Ties
Add a tie to either side of your waistband, matching up the shorter edges of the ties to the ends of the waistband.
For construction, fold the waistbands and ties in half along the length. Press them flat. Then, fold your raw edges inward, press again, and edge-stitch along the entirety of the folded length to secure and finish the edge.
If choosing to use ribbon instead of fabric ties, select something strong and avoid using anything with stretch.
Final Closure and Wear
Step 6: Creating the Buttonhole Closure
To complete the wrap closure, you must try the skirt on.
Place a large buttonhole on your waistband at one of your skirt sides. This buttonhole is essential for the function of the wrap closure, as the lower layer tie needs to come through it.
To wear the finished Cress Skirt: loop your lower layer tie through the buttonhole you created on the waistband. Then, wrap the ties around your waist twice, and tie them securely.
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