Free Night Fury Plush Toy Pattern

Pattern Description:

This sewing pattern creates a fun, huggable Night Fury plush dragon with a playful pose. It includes features like spikes, ears, wings, and tail fins, which can be customized to make your own dragon character. The finished plush will be 13″ wide and 16″ tall.

Materials Needed & Measurements:

• Fabrics & Applique:
  • ½ yd. of fabric for main body. Recomended fabrics include faux fur, minky, cuddle fleece, and micro fleece. Plush, stretchy fabrics like fleece or minky create a more squat, round shape when stuffed, while non-stretchy fabrics like felt or cotton result in an elongated plush.
  • 7″ x 6″ piece of accent fabric for optional tail fin.
  • 3” x 6” piece of applique fabric (felt, cotton, etc.) for eyes.
  • 3″ x 3″ piece of black applique fabric (felt, cotton, etc.) for pupils.
  • 2″ x 2″ piece of white applique fabric (felt, cotton, etc.) for eye shines.
  • 2″ x 2″ piece of black or gray applique fabric (felt, cotton, etc.) for nostrils.
• Other Supplies:
  • 6” x 6” piece of light or heavy duty fusible web.
  • Sewing thread to match main fabric and applique fabrics.
  • Poly-fil stuffing.
• Tools: Basic sewing tools (sewing machine, scissors, iron, needles, pins, fabric marker, seam ripper).
• Finished Plush Dimensions: One plush: 13″ wide and 16″ tall.

Instructions for Making the Night Fury Plush Toy Pattern:

Prepare the Face Applique

• Trace Applique Pieces: Take your fusible web and trace all applique pieces (2 eyes, 2 pupils, 2 eye shines, 2 nostrils) onto the smooth (paper) side.
• Fuse to Applique Fabric: Fuse the bumpy (adhesive) side of the traced pieces onto the wrong side of your applique fabric. Pupils go onto black fabric, eye shines on white, and eyes onto an accent fabric.
• Cut Out Eye Pieces: Carefully cut out all the eye pieces.
• Arrange on Head Front (A): Arrange the cut eye pieces on the head front (A) piece of your main fabric. You can use the paper pattern to align them with the placement markings, then carefully pull the paper pattern away while holding the applique in place.
• Fuse Eye Pieces: Fuse the eye pieces in place with an iron. Use a press cloth (like a cotton scrap) if using polyester or fur fabric. Fuse the eyes first, then the pupils, eye shines, and nostrils.
• Secure Applique (Optional): If using heavy-duty fusible web, pieces can remain fused without sewing. Otherwise, sew them in place. A zigzag stitch is shown.
  • Other Applique Options: You can use a straight stitch by sewing around the edge of the applique pieces with matching thread, about 1/8” in from the edge. Alternatively, use a whipstitch by hand: bring thread up from the back about 1/8” from the applique edge, bring it down perpendicular just outside the shape, and repeat stitches about 1/8” apart.

Sewing the Forehead Spikes

• Align Spike Pieces: Grab your forehead spike pieces (B). Align two pieces with right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Trace Seam Line: To sew the tight corners, trim off the seam allowance from the paper pattern and use it to trace the seam line onto the wrong side of the fabric.
• Sew Spikes: Sew along the zigzagged edge you traced. Leave the long straight edge open for turning.

Basting the Forehead Spikes

• Clip and Trim: Clip close to the inner corners of the spikes for flexibility. Trim excess seam allowance at outer curves to reduce bulk.
• Turn Right Side Out: Turn the spikes right side out, defining each spike with a chopstick. Press lightly if they don’t lie flat.
• Transfer Placement Lines: Locate the spike placement lines on the top of the head front (A) paper pattern and transfer them to the right side of the fabric.
• Align and Pin: Align the open end of the spikes within these lines and pin them in place.
• Baste in Place: Baste the spikes within the seam allowance to hold them for the next step. Basting is a temporary sewing method using long stitches.

Sewing the Head Dart

• Fold Head Piece: The spikes are sewn onto one half of a dart on the upper part of the head front (A). Fold the head in half down the middle so the diagonal edges match and the spikes are sandwiched inside.
• Sew Dart: Sew the dart (a wedge-shaped gap that creates 3D shape when sewn) by starting at the opening and moving to the point. Blend the seam with the fold at the point for a smooth transition.
• Open Head: Open the head back up; the spikes should now be sewn inside.

Sewing the Head Spikes

• Align Spike Pieces: Grab your head spike pieces (C). Take two, align right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Sew Spikes: Sew along the curved edge, leaving the short straight edge open for turning.
• Trim Seam Allowance: Before turning, trim excess seam allowance at the curve to reduce bulk.
• Repeat and Turn: Repeat for the remaining 10 spike pieces to create 6 complete spikes. Turn them all right side out.

Attaching the Head Spikes

• Transfer Placement Lines: Locate the head spike placement lines on the Head Front paper pattern and transfer them to the right side of the fabric (two on each side, two on top).
• Align and Baste: Align the open end of the spikes within these placement lines. Side spikes should point upward, top spikes toward the center. Baste the spikes in place within the seam allowance.

Sewing the Head Front to the Back

• Mark Notch: Locate the notch marking on the head back (D) paper pattern and mark it onto the wrong side of the fabric.
• Align Pieces: Align the head back over the head front (with spikes pointing inward), right sides facing, and the top notch matching the head front dart seam. Pin edges in place.
• Sew Head Perimeter: Sew around the perimeter of the head, pivoting at the corners near the bottom and sides of the face.
• Cut Slit for Turning: To turn the head right side out, cut a small slit near the bottom center of the head, through the back layer only. This area is marked on the paper pattern and will be covered by the neck.

Stuffing and Closing the Head

• Stuff Head: Turn the head right side out and stuff it semi-firmly. Focus on stuffing the chin points and head corners to achieve the correct shape.
• Whip Stitch Opening: Thread a hand-sewing needle and stitch the opening closed with a whip stitch (an overhand stitch where the needle wraps around the fabric edge). This holds it until it’s attached to the body.

Sewing the Ears

• Align Ear Pieces: Grab your ear pieces (E). Take two, align right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Sew Ears: Sew them together along the long curved edge, leaving the short straight edge open for turning.
• Turn Right Side Out: Turn the ear right side out and repeat with the remaining two ear pieces for two complete ears.

Stuffing and Closing the Ears

• Lightly Stuff: Stuff the ears lightly so they take shape.
• Gathering Stitch: Thread a hand-sewing needle and knot the end. Run a gathering stitch (long running stitches that shorten fabric when pulled) around the opening of the ear.
• Cinch Closed: Pull the thread to cinch the ear closed, tucking in fabric edges. Sew a few knots into the center to hold it closed. You can leave extra thread attached to sew the ear to the head later.

Attaching the Ears

• Align Ears: Take a stuffed ear and align it on the head. Seams should match head seams, with the straighter side of the ear pointing toward the center. Place it next to the head spikes and pin it in place. Note that the ear base is slanted for an upward tilt.
• Ladder Stitch: Ladder stitch the ear in place around the base. (Refer to step 19 for more detail on ladder stitch if needed).
• Set Aside Head: Set the head aside to work on the body.

Sewing the Arms

• Align Arm Pieces: Grab your arm pieces (F). Take two, align right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Sew Arms: Sew them together along the long curved edge, leaving the short straight edge open for turning.
• Turn Right Side Out: Turn the arm right side out and repeat with the remaining two arm pieces for two complete arms.

Basting the Arms

• Lightly Stuff Arms: Stuff the arm lightly, avoiding too much stuffing near the opening.
• Transfer Placement Lines: Grab your body front piece (G). Locate the arm placement lines on the paper pattern and transfer them to the right side of the fabric.
• Align and Pin: Align the open end of the arm within these lines and pin in place.
• Baste Arms: Baste the arm within the seam allowance to hold it. Repeat for the other arm, moving the first arm out of the way if needed.
• Set Aside Body Front: Set aside the body front to work on the body back.

Sewing the Body Spikes

• Align Spike Pieces: Grab your body spike pieces (H). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Trace Seam Line: Trim off the seam allowance from the paper pattern and use it to trace the seam line onto the wrong side of the fabric, similar to forehead spikes.
• Sew Spikes: Sew the spikes along the zigzagged edge you traced. Leave the long straight edge open for turning.

Basting the Body Spikes

• Clip, Trim, and Turn: Clip seam allowances close to inner corners for flexibility and trim excess seam allowances for less bulk. Turn spikes right side out and press lightly if they don’t lie flat.
• Transfer Placement Lines: Grab your body back inside piece (I2). Locate the spike placement lines on the paper pattern and transfer them to the right side of the fabric.
• Align and Baste: Place the open end of the spikes within these lines with the spikes pointing downward, bending along the fabric edge curve. Baste the spikes in place within the seam allowance.

Sewing the Body Back Pieces

• Align Pieces: Grab your corresponding body back outside piece (I1). Align its inner curved edge to the outer curved edge of the inside piece (I2). The outside piece has spike placement markings for alignment.
• Pin and Sew: Bend the outside piece to match the inside piece, aligning spike placement points and end points. Use many pins. Sew the two pieces together along the curved edge.

Sewing the Wing Pieces

• Align Wing Pieces: Grab your wing pieces (J). Align them with right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Mark Opening: Locate the opening for turning markings on the paper pattern and transfer them to the wrong side of the fabric.
• Sew Wings: Sew around the perimeter of the wings, pivoting at the points. Leave the marked opening.
• Trim Seam Allowance: Trim excess seam allowance at the points (for less bulk) and inner curves (for flexibility).

Stitching the Wings Closed

• Turn Right Side Out: Turn the wings right side out and poke out the corners with a chopstick.
• Ladder Stitch Opening: Tuck the seam allowances in the opening inside. Thread a hand-sewing needle, knot the end, and insert the needle from the inside of the opening, out near one edge to hide the knot. Continue with a ladder stitch: take a 1/8” stitch into the fold of one side, then go across and take another on the opposite fold. Continue down the opening.
• Finish Stitch: When finished, stitch a knot. Insert the needle near the knot and out 1-2” away. Pull the thread taut and snip; the excess thread should sink inside the wings.

Top Stitching the Wings (Optional)

• Transfer Stitching Lines: The wing pattern has top stitching lines for depth. To transfer them, trim the pattern along the lines and use it as a template to trace onto the fabric.
• Top Stitch: Use a slightly longer than average straight stitch to sew over these top stitching lines.

Attaching the Wings

• Center Wings: Place the finished wings over the body back piece you have, centering them along the back seam, right above the spikes.
• Sew Wings: Sew the wings in place by stitching down the middle of the wings and through the body back seam.

Sewing the Front to the Back

• Align Body Pieces: Retrieve the body front piece. Align the body back with the body front, right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Tuck Appendages: Ensure the wings and arms are tucked inside. This might be difficult due to arm stuffing, so maneuver them to fit.
• Mark Opening: Locate the opening for turning markings on the body front pattern and transfer them, or mark a 2-3″ opening below the arms on the outer curve of the body.
• Sew Perimeter: Sew around the perimeter of the body, leaving the marked opening.

Stuffing and Closing the Body

• Clip and Trim: Clip the seam allowance at the inner curve near the tail for flexibility. Trim the seam allowance near the tail tip to reduce bulk.
• Turn and Stuff: Turn the plush right side out and stuff it semi-firmly. Stuff the tail firm to keep its shape, but stuff the neck very lightly.
• Ladder Stitch Closed: Stitch the opening in the side closed with a ladder stitch, similar to how the wings were closed.

Attaching the Head

• Align Head: Grab the stuffed head. Overlap it with the neck so the chin comes about halfway down the arms. The neck area should cover the whip stitch done in step 9. Proper placement can be tricky; consider using hot glue to hold the head in place before sewing, or constantly check placement as you stitch.
• Pin Neck to Head: While holding the pieces, flip the body over. Pin the neck to the head by sticking pins down through the body into the head.
• Ladder Stitch Neck: Stitch the neck to the body around the rounded end with a ladder stitch. This is easiest with the head against a flat surface.
• Ladder Stitch Chin: Once the back of the head is sewn, go underneath and stitch the under-chin area to the body with a ladder stitch.

Sewing the Feet

• Align Feet Pieces: Grab your feet pieces (K). Take two, align right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Sew Perimeter: Sew them together all the way around the perimeter, pivoting at corners.
• Clip and Trim: Clip the seam allowance near inner corners for flexibility and trim excess seam allowance at outer corners for less bulk. Repeat for the remaining two foot pieces for two complete feet.

Turning and Stuffing the Feet

• Make Slit: To turn the feet, make a small slit near the center bottom of one foot, cutting through only one layer of fabric.
• Turn and Define: Turn the feet right side out through the opening and define the corners with a chopstick.
• Lightly Stuff: Stuff the feet lightly so they take shape.

Attaching the Feet

• Whip Stitch Opening: Once stuffed, stitch the opening closed with a whip stitch to contain the stuffing.
• Place and Pin: Place the feet on the body so the stitched side faces the body (and is hidden). The pointed claws should point up. Position them about 3½” down from the head, or where the body starts to curve. Use placement markings on the paper pattern for help. Pin the feet in place by sticking pins down through the feet and into the body.
• Ladder Stitch: Stitch the feet in place with a ladder stitch, ensuring you stitch around the whip stitch you just made.

Sewing the Tail Fin

• Applique Skull (Toothless Version): If making the Toothless version, prepare the Viking skull applique: Trace the template onto fusible web, fuse it to white applique fabric, cut out the shape, and fuse it to your accent tail fin piece using placement lines as a guide.
• Align Tail Fin Pieces: Align two of your tail fin pieces (L) with right sides facing and raw edges matching.
• Sew Perimeter: Note that one straight edge of the tail fin has a notch; this is the edge to leave open. Sew around the rest of the tail fin, remembering to pivot at the corners.

Turning the Tail Fin

• Trim and Clip: Trim excess seam allowance at points for less bulk and clip seam allowance at inner curves for flexibility. Repeat for the remaining two tail fin pieces for two finished fins.
• Turn Right Side Out: Turn the tail fins right side out through the opening and poke out the corners with a chopstick.
• Tuck Seam Allowances: Tuck in the seam allowances in the opening so the edges are flush.

Attaching the Tail Fin

• Close Opening: Sew the folded edges of the opening together with a ladder stitch or a whip stitch.
• Align Fin: Align the stitched edge of the tail fin along the sides of the tail, ensuring the fin points upward. For Toothless, the accent fin with the skull design should be on the right side when viewed from the back, facing up. Pin the tail fin in place by sticking pins into the base of the fin and through the tail.
• Ladder Stitch: Stitch the fin in place using a ladder stitch around the base of the tail.

Congratulations! Your plush is complete. Now give it a big hug!.

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